THE TIME TRAVELLERS

HALTER & BARNES

Pisces • 1963

"Sometimes doors open in life. As far as I remember, I have always been fascinated by everything mechanical. Once, someone asked my mother when ‘this’ all started, and she could not answer. It has always been there."

As URWERK was in its infancy, Vianney Halter was on the cusp of creating the watch that would come to define his brand of watchmaking. An alumnus of the THA complications workshop, Halter was approached by Jeffrey Barnes in the mid-90s with an idea to create a series of watches. Barnes, an American graphic designer whose lifelong interest in watches led him to pen his own timepieces. 

Introduced to Halter by Joseph Penola, an American associate of Barnes who originally hailed from Sainte-Croix and where Halter resides, Barnes’ inaugural 1994 design was a wristwatch with four sub-dials, each within its own porthole in a steampunk-style case. It was a round watch yet deconstructed and utterly unlike anything that had come before. In fact, it was so far from convention that few watchmakers would take on the task of turning the design into reality.

Barnes has acknowledged that whilst he had dreamt up the aesthetics of the watch and commissioned a fellow Chicagoan Chris Sheban to illustrate it, the idea of incorporating a perpetual calendar complication into it was conceived by Halter. Barnes’ daughter – Maranda Barnes, who during the developmental phase of the project was interning at Halter’s manufacture attest to that; recalling having to translate, over the telephone, the conversation between the two men.

Illustrations by Chris Sheban

Whilst both stood initially in opposition to each other’s ideas, the duo managed to find a meeting of minds and together, created the Time Machine Perpetual Antiqua debuting at the Basel Fair in 1998. 

According to Halter, the first three examples of the Time Machine Perpetual Antiqua were badged “Halter Barnes”, but after a dispute between designer and watchmaker meant that Barnes role in its creation has largely been glossed over since. Made worse by the fact that out of the three original Halter Barnes Time Machine Perpetual Antiquas, only one example had survived. 

Soon after the lauded premiere of the Antiqua, Halter put several other of Barnes’ designs into production, namely the Classic and the Trio, before moving on to other projects, including the quirky Goldpfeil wristwatch created for the now defunct German leather goods maker that was inspired by a leather-wrapped rangefinder camera.

Property of a private collector

Property of a private collector

1998

Halter Barnes Time Machine Perpetual Antiqua

The quintessential Vianney Halter wristwatch, the Antiqua was launched in 1998. Radical in its steampunk design, the Antiqua was actually borne of Halter’s partnership with American designer Jeff Barnes, leading to the early brand name of Halter-Barnes.

Property of Dr Bernard Cheong

1998

Antiqua Platinum #00

Conceived to resemble a time machine from a Jules Verne novel, the Antiqua was a perpetual calendar with the time and calendar separated into sub-dials framed in riveted bezels, a complex construction that few could accomplish but Halter did.

Property of Dr Bernard Cheong

Property of a private collector

Property of a private collector

2000

Antiqua Rose Gold

One of the earliest examples of the Antiqua, this particular one has the fat font.

Property of a private collector

2000

Antiqua Yellow Gold

Property of a private collector

Property of a private collector

Property of a private collector

2000

Classic White Gold

The simplest of the Halter-Barnes creations, the Classic shows only the time on the front, but features a trademark element of the brand’s movements – a mystery rotor made of a clear sapphire disc weighted only along half its edge, allowing the rotor to spin almost invisibly.

Property of a private collector

2000

Classic Rose Gold

Property of a private collector

Property of Mr Ali Maghami

Property of Mr Ali Maghami

2006

Trio Yellow Gold

Another of the Halter-Barnes designs was the Trio, which only indicates the time and date, but with a striking design giving it the look of an instrument on the wrist.

Property of Dr Dominic Liew

2005

Trio White Gold

Property of Dr Dominic Liew

Property of a private collector

Property of a private collector

2001

Gold Pfeil

Rendered in a radically different style, the Goldpfeil and Opus 3 were all collaborations between Vianney Halter and a mainstream luxury brand – Harry Winston a famed New York jeweller, and Goldpfeil a German leather goods maker. Both watches were styled with the help of French designer Pascal Pages, explaining the shared, quirky aesthetic. Inspired by a vintage camera, the Goldpfeil wristwatch was a novel interpretation of two traditional complications, the jump hour and moon phase.

Property of a private collector

2003

Harry Winston Platinum Opus 3

The Opus 3 is a time-and-date wristwatch done entirely digitally, making it one of the most complicated timepieces of its era.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Opus 3 took a decade to make it to market – with the project going from one watchmaker to another before being realised by Renaud & Papi - and even now it retains a reputation for being a mechanically finicky timepiece.

Property of a private collector

Property of a private collector

Property of a private collector

2003

Harry Winston Rose Gold Opus 3

The Hour Glass

2010

Tourbillon #00

An unusual yet intriguingly oversized tourbillon with detente escapement. Rendered in yellow gold, it measures 22 x 22 cm. The tourbillon cage measures 13 cm across.

The Hour Glass

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